"Other creatures seem unfazed by the dinghy’s quiet and slow-moving carapace. Once an Otter swam leisurely across the bow, lost in the bream it was gnawing. Kingfishers have perched on the stern as we breakfasted. We have heard the local Cranes’ extraordinary duet at the nest, two clarion notes a minor third apart, so close in time and harmony that they sound as if they are being uttered by a single bird. Best was the time we had an Osprey fish-prospecting directly above us, a spectacle reserved for the boat-borne. It dwarfed the harriers that rose up to mob it, and for the briefest of moments blocked out the sun."